Photograph: Turquoise Mountain Gardens by Codepinkhq (Women for Peace) / Creative Commons

I’m standing on the balcony of our British Council office in Afghanistan, watching in awe as, against the orange sunset on the mountains that surround Kabul, our neighbours fly their kites in the light breeze of the evening sky.

They’re practicing for the kite running season, which starts in Kabul soon and will see families descend on the city’s parks to watch aerial combatants battle it out – serious business indeed and, from the way our neighbours artfully twist and turn to cut each others strings, skilful too.

It’s been an inspirational week and one that has made me realise just how much it means to people in Afghanistan that we are here, working with them, and have been since 2003.

At a local, English medium school I meet Tahmina, a 15 year old, Afghan girl who has been studying since the fall of the Taliban in 2001. When I ask her about the future she tells me that she’d like to sit her school exams with us so she can fulfil her dream of becoming a doctor.

Walking round the school I’m amazed by the buzz of the place and the thirst for learning. It’s humbling to meet the teachers, see the positive atmosphere in every classroom and get chance to talk to the kids. As usual I spend most of my time with the ‘littlies’ in playgroup and kindergarten, the next generation of Afghans whose future is hopefully brighter than their parent’s generation. I end up teaching part of their maths lesson and soon realise their addition and subtraction is far better than mine!

Throughout my time here the subject of the past and the future comes up time and again, as does the UK’s historic relationship with Afghanistan. At Khatam-ul-Nabeen University, I meet Dr. Mohisini, the Vice Chancellor, who tells me how much he appreciates what we do here. Sitting in his office overlooking the beautifully manicured lawns and Iranian architecture of the university, dwarfed by the minarets and dome of the campus mosque, he too talks of past and future. Through my colleague Anwar he explains that although Afghanistan may have had a 200 year relationship with the UK it should never be dominated by the gun, but rather based on the foundations of educational and cultural exchange. I could hardly agree more and, hopefully, through the work we are doing we are helping that happen.

On the last day I visit Turquoise Mountain, a local organisation regenerating Afghanistan’s traditional arts and historic areas, as well as reinvigorating national pride in Afghan culture. Supported by a range of international organisations, us included, their range of local woodwork, calligraphy and jewellery is breathtaking.

In their studio, there are no kites on sale sadly so I can’t hone my skills when I get home but I like to think that through our work with them and other people here we’re helping build a brighter future for both our countries and at least flying a flag for the UK here.

Richard Sunderland is British Council Director of Examinations, Pakistan and Regional Business Manager, Central and Southern Asia.

Comments

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Angela Sexton

Posted on July 22nd, 2010 Report abuse

Hi Richard,

I enjoyed your piece I couldn’t agree more that our relationship with Afghanistan should be based on educational exchange. Shame you didn’t get a chance to try your hand at kite running!